ROAST GOOSE REDUX

We decided to roast a goose instead of the traditional turkey again for Thanksgiving this year, and used a very simple, straightforward method: Roasted, breast up, no turning, no basting, at a hot 450F for just two hours (15 minutes per pound), with a couple of peeled tangerines stuck into the cavity to provide aromatics. A remarkably simple procedure, and it came out just right.

My wine choice was the 1995 Foxen Santa Barbara Pinot Noir. The ripe, candied-fruit quality of Santa Barbara Pinot made an excellent match with the goose meat, which was dark and rich and earthy. I'm very pleased with the choice.