TEXAS BARBECUE SAUCE

Texas barbecue should never be sauced except at the table. I whomped up a very simple Texas style sauce while the meat was smoking: Sautee a small onion and fat garlic clove (both minced) in vegetable oil until they start to get brown and crunchy. Then add one 8-ounce can tomato sauce, 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce, juice of 1/2 lemon, 1 tablespoon brown sugar and simmer very gently, covered, for at least 1 hour. You can also add hot sauce to taste. I went with a chipotle (smoked-jalapeno) sauce and plenty of it, because I like it and because I think the smokiness of chipotles adds a wonderful dimension to barbecue sauces.